be commercial enterprises. The Castello di Brolio, for instance, was huge but sans ruination -- and closed. Continuing on, we passed several on the skyline, like Meleto, and the pretty Gaiole.

Definitely the most interesting part of that day was lunch. Sorry, but it was ! We'd driven for what seemed like hours and hours, and with growling tums were beginning to argue about the existence or otherwise of Anywhere To Eat Within The Next Fifty Ks. We came to where a road branched off at 90º to our right, and stopped because there was a bar on the left. Turned out to have nothing savoury to eat at all. CS then noticed that across the junction in the other road was a ristorante, which appeared to be closed. Well, *I* couldn't see any lights. It was, of course, open (trust CS' luck !) and proved to be absolutely WONDERFUL.

We eventually staggered out, tummies tight with delicious food, having told the very nice man that we would spread the word. We meant it. This is THE WORD, and I'm spreading it ! -- Cassia Vetus Osteria, on the corner of the next turnoff to the right (heading towards Arezzo) past Loro
Ciuffenna. About 4ks on. Go there; it's *definitely* worth the journey !

So ... We backed up, shortly afterwards, to drive up to a little place we saw, late, on the skyline -- Cacciano, a tiny hamlet consisting, it seems, of ruined houses that are all being restored (I thought I saw a ruined rocca, but we never found it when we got up there). Where people get the money to do this, I can't imagine; it must cost an absolute fortune just to transport the materials up those mountains' foothills !

And then there was one of my now favourite places in Italy, Civitella in Val di Chiana. It's ... heaven. It's high; it has a wonderful ruined rocca; it's small; it has no loud tourists because there is nowhere to stay in the town; it's clean; we saw no stray cats; and it's *so pretty* !!! Sighh ... although neither this nor Malgrate in Lunigiana has accommodation, both are to dream about -- so now I can't decide which one to live in, once we've won the lottery ... (and I haven't even mentioned Drôme Provençale !)

On the Sunday we left Arezzo fairly reluctantly, to