themselves older than the wares for sale. This is an attractive arm of the business world, but lends itself only to noses' being pressed against windows, for people like us. Same goes for the shops under the colonnades at the top of the Piazza Grande; a caffè in the Bar (shouldn't call it that, I imagine) sets you back a 3rd world nation's debt -- but their loo is super, unless you don't stoop low enough and so hit your head on the frame of its teeny door ...!

We stayed at the Casa Volpi, just out of the centro, and it was wonderful. It even had its own German Shepherd, a superb creature named Peri, who let me kiss him and make a fuss of him every day ! The beautiful Alessia, daughter of the padroni (who live on the top floor), arrives early every morning except Thursday from nearby Le Ville to play her incomparable part; she is VERY good at what she does, and VERY nice, and Peri loves her. Our room was on a corner of the house, and thus had two windows with views, and was big, comfortable and also lovely (and CS *adores* tiled floors with rugs). Casa Volpi's history doesn't go back so very far, comparatively speaking, and no-one pretends it does; the place
is so nice, with such glorious grounds (and dog) that it doesn't need æons of history as well as all its other attractions.

We did have one less than salutary experience in Arezzo; we collected a a load of laundry we'd had done in the town that looked wonderful, but had missed out on its rinse cycle, so that all those beautifully folded articles were full of soap ! CS' ankles first alerted us to this (Stringer's Slithery Socks Syndrome), and I was still scaly from a pair of slacks donned carelessly for ages afterwards. But just because we had to sniff our supply of clean clothes every morning until our next chance to have laundry done (like winetasters testing their bouquet; rejecting some: "Naah -- those ones were DEFINITELY done in Arezzo !", selecting others dubiously) -- did this affect our view of Arezzo ? -- hardly !

And we had some lovely eating while we were based there, including Casa Volpi's own place and most memorable lasagne at the Vineria al Duomo, just across the road from that edifice (which we didn't happen to find open on any of our visits). And CS paid a visit to the Chimæra