themselves older than the wares for sale. This is an attractive arm of the business world, but lends itself only to noses' being pressed against windows, for people like us. Same goes for the shops under the colonnades at the top of the Piazza Grande; a caffè in the Bar (shouldn't call it that, I imagine) sets you back a 3rd world nation's debt -- but their loo is super, unless you don't stoop low enough and so hit your head on the frame of its teeny door ...!
We stayed at the
Casa Volpi, just out of the centro, and it was wonderful. It even had its own German Shepherd, a superb creature named Peri, who let me kiss him and make a fuss of him every day ! The beautiful Alessia, daughter of the padroni (who live on the top floor), arrives early every morning except Thursday from nearby Le Ville to play her incomparable part; she is VERY good at what she does, and VERY nice, and Peri loves her. Our room was on a corner of the house, and thus had two windows with views, and was big, comfortable and also lovely (and CS *adores* tiled floors with rugs). Casa Volpi's history doesn't go back so very far, comparatively speaking, and no-one pretends it does; the place