In fact, in Rieti we had one of our very best meals, lunch at a little ristorante called Solo Pesce, in via San Rufo (we think). Lord knows who would actually expect to find a heavenly fish restaurant in Rieti -- certainly not *moi* ! -- but there it was, and it smelled divine. CS had found it and was pleased with himself, and well he might be; that was one of the best lunches I've ever had, and far from the most expensive (for which adjective the mind instantly travels back to that truly hideous meal on the train to Arezzo ...).

We stayed at The Four Seasons. Dunno what went wrong, but something sure had; the young woman on the front desk was absolutely lovely, and her colleagues were fine; but the general air was of decay, and our room hadn't seen a vacuum-cleaner for an unconscionable amount of time. That alone made me feel better about having overlooked tipping the lady who returned the laundry to the room ... well, that AND the cost of it -- easily the most expensive laundry we've ever had done, anywhere ! But the tariff wasn't bad, as hotels go; and we didn't spend all that much time in it, anyway.